Troubleshooting

• My front load washer is not draining or spinning out loads. My loads are very wet.
• Why do I have a strange odor and mildew inside my washer?
• My top-load washer fills slowly.
• My top-load washer will not fill or start.
• What do I do if my water temperature is too hot or too cold?
• My front load/top load washer makes sounds when it drains. Is this normal?
• My front load washer makes sounds when it washes. Is this normal?
• My top load washer makes sounds when it washes. Is this normal?

My front load washer is not draining or spinning out loads. My loads are very wet.

Is the Delicate or Hand Washables cycle selected?

Your washer is designed so that in certain cycles, such as Delicate or Hand Washables cycles, the spin speeds are slower. In these cycles, more water is retained in the load at the end of the cycle to keep delicate fabrics from shrinking and wrinkling. Select the appropriate cycle based on the fabric being washed.

Was an extra low, low or no spin option selected?

Select the highest spin speed for the fabric being washed. If extra low spin or no spin was selected, the washer may not remove enough water from the load.

Were you washing one bulky item, such as a rug or large blanket?

Consider adding more items to help balance the load during spin. Your washer is designed to detect an unbalanced load and automatically lower the spin speed. Unbalanced conditions are more likely to occur with a single, bulky item.

Are excessive suds present?

Use only HE High Efficiency detergent. Using non-HE detergent or more than the manufacturer's recommended amount of detergent can cause excessive suds. The excess suds can cause the washer to run at a reduced spin speed, which will result in very wet loads.

Is the drain hose kinked or is the drain clogged?

Make sure the drain hose is not kinked. Straighten the hose for adequate water flow. Remove any blockage from the drainpipe or utility sink. Use the U-shaped drain hose form on the drain hose, and secure the drain hose.

Is the end of the drain hose more than 96" (244 cm) above the floor?

The drainpipe (standpipe) height requirements are: 96" (244 cm) maximum and 30" (76.2 cm) minimum. Your washer will not be able to adequately pump the water out of the washer if the drainpipe (standpipe) exceeds 96" (244 cm). In this case, the water may flow back into the washer.

Is your outlet voltage low?

Check electrical source or call an electrician.

Why do I have a strange odor and mildew inside my washer?

Odor-causing residues and mold and mildew stains have the potential to accumulate anywhere moisture is present. Non HE High Efficiency detergents used in an HE washer, body oils, grime, soap, and water can cause residue and mold and mildew stains to accumulate behind the drum of the washer. If not properly cleaned on a regular basis, all HE washing machines have the potential for odor-causing residue buildup and mold and mildew stains.

Washer odors are usually caused by leaving the washer lid closed when not in use. This does not allow air to circulate and dry out the moisture remaining in tub area. The air and moisture mixture becomes stagnant and creates an odor. When washer is not in use, leaving the lid up/open for air circulation will help prevent odor.

My top-load washer fills slowly.

Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?

Is the water inlet hose kinked?

Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?

Does the water level seem too low?

My top-load washer will not fill or start.

Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?

Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?

Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?

Is the water inlet hose kinked?

Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?

Is the timer knob in the off position?

Is the timer knob pushed in?

Is the lid open?

What do I do if my water temperature is too hot or too cold?

• Check to ensure both hot and cold water supply valves are turned on.
• Check to ensure the hose connections were not reversed. Typically, the hoses are marked with letters "H" for hot and "C" for cold.
• Check to ensure the proper temperature setting was selected.
• Check the household water heater to make sure it is delivering water at 90-110 degrees F. Hot wash water is the house hot water supply, when it reaches the washer.
• Warm is the mix of hot and cold water coming into the washer and can change depending on the incoming water temperatures to the washer.

• Cold depends on the incoming supply and can vary from near freezing in some areas in the winter to about 80 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer.

• Check the water valve screen for a clog. One half of the water valve can fail and only hot or cold will come into the washer. Select cold or hot temperature and if one or the other does not work the valve screen may be clogged. Note: On models that have a temperature sensor, you might hear the water valves automatically turn on and off while the temperature is being adjusted.

My front load/top load washer makes sounds when it drains. Is this normal?

Is there a tapping sound in drain or spin?

Is there a gurgling, slurping sound while the washer is draining?

My top load washer makes sounds when it washes. Is this normal?

Do you hear a constant clicking sound?

Are there items in the load that have metal buckles, snaps or zippers? Are there other loose items like coins?

My dryer does not heat.

Did you select an air tumble cycle or air only temperature option?

The air tumble cycle or air only temperature does not add heat to the dryer. Expect loads dried with the air tumble cycle or air only temperature to take longer to dry. Air tumble cycle or air only temperature can be found on the control knob or button with the other temperature selections.

Has a household fuse blown or has a circuit breaker tripped?

The drum may be turning, but you may not have heat. Electric dryers use 2 household fuses or circuit breakers. Replace the fuses or reset the circuit breakers. If the problem continues, call an electrician.

Did you recently install a power supply cord on the dryer?

The power supply cord may be incorrectly installed. Review the installation instructions to make sure that the power supply cord is properly installed.

Why are my loads damp or my drying times are taking so long?

Is the lint screen clogged with lint?

Dryers need good air movement to correctly operate. A full lint screen reduces air movement. Clean the lint screen before drying every load.

Is the exhaust vent or outside exhaust hood clogged with lint and restricting air movement?

A clogged exhaust vent system slows moist air from leaving the dryer and extends drying time. Run the dryer for 5-10 minutes. Hold your hand under the outside exhaust hood to check air movement. If the air movement is less than a hair dryer on high speed, clean the lint from the entire length of the system and the exhaust hood.

Is the exhaust vent kinked, smashed or crushed?

Kinked or crushed exhaust vent material slows moist air from leaving the dryer and extends drying time. Replace any plastic or metal foil vent with rigid or flexible heavy metal vent.

Kinked or crushed exhaust vent material slows moist air from leaving the dryer and extends drying time. Replace any plastic or metal foil vent with rigid or flexible heavy metal vent.

The exhaust vent system may be too long or have too many turns. Heavy rigid metal vent material and boxed or louvered exhaust hoods allow for the longest exhaust vent systems. Use the fewest number of elbows for the best airflow. Your installation should not have more than 4 elbows. Each additional elbow in the system reduces the amount of vent material length the system can have for good air movement.

Are fabric softener sheets blocking air flow?

A dryer softener sheet may be blocking the air intake or exhaust grille inside the dryer drum. This slows moist air from moving out of the dryer, which then lengthens the cycle time. Use only one fabric softener sheet per load, and use it only once. Remove any fabric softener sheets from the inside of the dryer drum.

Is the dryer located in a garage, on a porch or in a room colder than 45°F (7°C)?

The air temperature surrounding a dryer in a garage or on a porch may be too cold for the dryer to dry loads well. Proper operation of the cycles requires the dryer to be in an area where the air temperature is above 45°F (7°C).

Is the dryer located in a closet?

Closet doors must have ventilation openings at the top and bottom of the door. The front of the dryer requires a minimum of 1" (2.5 cm) of airflow space, and, for most installations, the rear of the dryer requires 5½" (14 cm).

Were you drying a large load?

Large loads take longer to dry. A load that is too large for the dryer will not tumble and limits air movement in the dryer. This slows the process of removing moist air out of the dryer, which will result in longer drying cycles.

Why do I have so much lint in my dryer?

Is the lint screen clogged with lint?

Clean the lint screen before each load is dried. Do not rinse or wash the screen to remove lint (wet lint is hard to remove). Roll lint off the screen with your fingers.

Is the lint screen clogged with residue?

Over time, residue may build up on the lint screen. To remove the residue, wet a nylon brush with hot water and liquid detergent.

Was the load sorted before washing and drying?

Sort loads before laundering. Sorting involves separating lint givers (towels, chenille) from lint takers (corduroy, synthetics). Also sort by color - lights with lights and darks with darks.

Were you drying a large load?

Larger loads sometimes do not allow adequate removal of lint from the clothing. Smaller loads allow the air movement to carry lint to the lint screen. Reduce load size if needed.

Was the load overdried?

Your load may be overdried. Overdrying produces static electricity in synthetic and synthetic-blend fabrics. The static electricity attracts lint. Automatic dry or electronic sensor dry cycle reduces overdrying. Check your dryer cycle descriptions for cycles and temperatures to match your fabric types.

Were paper items or tissues left in pockets?

The lint may be paper or tissues left in pockets. Always check all pockets prior to washing. Also, check the dryer interior prior to each load to ensure that non-clothing items are not present.

Is the fabric pilling (fuzzing)?

The lint may be the surface fuzz (pilling) on your fabric. Normal wear and laundering produce the surface fuzz. The fuzz may look like lint, or the fuzz can trap lint from other fabrics.

My dryer or load has an odor.

Have you recently been painting, staining or varnishing in the area where your dryer is located?

If so, ventilate the area. When odors or fumes are gone from the area, rewash and dry the load. The odor is on the load because the dryer pulls in surrounding room air to dry the load. To avoid this, do not run the dryer while painting, varnishing or refinishing near the dryer.

Was a damp or wet load left in the washer or dryer?

If wet load left in the washer or dryer for a long time will begin to grow mildew, which will result in odors. Rewash and dry the load to remove the odors. Promptly remove loads from the washer at the end of the wash cycle to avoid odors.

Is the dryer being used for the first time? (Electric)

A new electric heating element may have an odor. The odor will be gone after the first cycle.

My dryer makes sounds or vibrations.

Has the dryer had a period of nonuse?

If the dryer hasn't been used for a while, there may be a light thumping sound during the first few minutes of operation. When the dryer is not used, the drum support rollers can flatten where the rollers and drum touch. The flat spot causes the thumping sound. Once the dryer runs for a few minutes, the rollers will regain their shape and the sound should stop.

Is the load knotted or balled up?

Another form of thumping can occur when the load is twisted or balled up. Laundry items with large amounts of fabric, such as sheets, curtains, tablecloths and bedspreads, can roll into a ball in the dryer. This ball of fabric may thump and may cause the dryer to vibrate. To reduce this, add these large items loosely into the dryer. Remove any bunching that may have occurred during washing.

Are you hearing a scraping sound?

Objects such as coins, paper clips, safety pins, screws, nails or other small hardware can get caught in the seam where the drum meets the front or rear. Turn off the dryer. Look inside the dryer along the front and rear edges of the drum. Remove any objects caught in the seam.

Are the four legs installed, and is the dryer level front-to-back and side-to-side?

A dryer without legs, or that is missing legs, may rock or teeter on a floor that is not level, which will cause some noise. The legs adjust up and down to level the dryer on a floor that is not level. Check if any of the four dryer legs are missing. Replace any missing legs, and level the dryer both front-to-back and side-to-side. A level dryer is required for the sensing of load moisture in dry cycle-auto cycles.

Are you hearing a knocking or rattling sound?

Zippers, buckles, buttons and rivets on garments as well as loose coins, paper clips, pens, or similar items may be tumbling in the dryer. Always check and clear pockets prior to washing.

My fabric is too hot when I remove it from the dryer

Were laundry items removed from the dryer before the end of the cycle?

Allow the load to run through the cool down part of the cycle before removing the laundry items from the dryer. All cycles end with a cool down, which cools the fabric for easy handling and reduced wrinkling. Items removed before cool down may feel very warm.

Was a high temperature cycle used, or was a separate temperature control set on high?

Select a lower temperature, and use an automatic dry or electronic sensor dry cycle. These cycles sense the temperature or the moisture level in the load and automatically shut off when the load reaches the selected dryness. This reduces overdrying.

My dryer will not start. What should I do?

Has a household fuse blown or has a circuit breaker tripped?

There may be 2 household fuses or circuit breakers for the dryer. Make sure both fuses are intact and tight or that both circuit breakers have not tripped. Replace the fuse(s) or reset the circuit breaker(s). If the problem continues, call an electrician.

Is the correct power supply available? (Electric dryers only)

Electric dryers require 240-volt power supply. Check with a qualified electrician.

Is the dryer door firmly closed?

Your dryer door may not be fully closed. It may look shut, but may not be latched. Push on the door to engage the latch or latches. Some models have an upper and lower latch. Both latches must be secure for the dryer to run.

Was the Start, Push to Start or Hold to Start button firmly pressed?

Large loads may require the Start, Push to Start, or Hold to Start button to be pressed and held for two to five seconds.

Is the cycle control knob set on a sensor dry or timed dry cycle? (on some models)

The cycle control knob must be set in a automatic dry or electronic sensor dry or timed dry cycle. The dryer will not start if set on the extra care option.

Is controls locked status light on? (on some models)

Press and hold the cycle signal button for three seconds. This will turn off the controls locked feature.

Did you recently install a power supply cord on the dryer? (Electric dryers only)

The power supply cord may be incorrectly installed. If the power cord is incorrectly installed, the dryer may not start or heat. Review the installation instructions to check that the power supply cord is properly installed.

What do I do if my dryer drum isn't turning?

Make sure dryer is not overloaded. A load of heavy, wet clothes, such as towels or blue jeans, may cause the drive belt to slip. Remove some of the clothing and try to start the dryer again.

Check for broken belt by turning drum. Drum will turn freely if belt is broken or loose. When dryer is turned on, a loud thump will be heard if the belt is broken.

My refrigerator is running, but it is not cool or cool enough.

• If your doors have been opened frequently, doors have been opened for long periods of time, or your refrigerator was recently installed, wait 24-48 hours for the refrigerator to completely cool.
• Your refrigerator should not be placed where temperatures will exceed 110°F or drop below 55°F.
• Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It could take several hours for the refrigerator to return to the normal temperature.
• If the refrigerator is in Defrost mode, the freezer compartment temperature will be less cold than usual. Wait approximately 20 minutes, and you should be able to feel cold air blowing in the bottom of the compartment.
• For your convenience, your temperature controls are preset at the factory to "mid-settings," which should be correct for normal household use. However, the controls may need to be adjusted. If so, adjust the temperature one setting colder and wait 24 hours for the temperature of the refrigerator or freezer and contents to cool. Repeat this procedure until the desired temperature is reached.
• Make sure the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator compartments are not blocked. Cold air enters and exits the refrigerator compartment from the freezer compartment through vents near the top shelf and crisper drawer. If the vents are blocked by food items, airflow will decrease, which will cause temperature and moisture problems. Move any item that could be blocking one of the vents.

My refrigerator is too cold.

Side by Side Models

• If foods, such as fruits and vegetables, in the refrigerator are freezing, it can be caused by several things. First, check the controls. They should be set at "C" and "5" or "5" and "5". The proper fresh food temperature is between 38 and 42 degrees Fahrenheit. The freezer should be between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit.
• If food in the bottom of the refrigerator is freezing, this could be caused by a refrigerator not having enough food to absorb the cold air.
• If food in the door is freezing, move the door bins up or down so they are one notch away from freezer vents (side by side models only).
• The fresh food control should be at the normal setting of 5.

Freezer on Top Models

• First, check the controls. They should be set at "C" and "5" or "5" and "5". The proper fresh food temperature is between 38 and 42 degrees Fahrenheit. The freezer should be between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Since the cold air coming into the fresh food section originates in the freezer above, the rear of the top shelf will be the coldest spot in the fresh food area. Avoid placing delicate items that freeze easily on the back half of this shelf.
• If food is freezing in the produce (fruits and vegetables) or meat pan, it may be that the temperature controls are not set high enough. Since cold air naturally falls, the pans can get too cold if the refrigerator is not running long enough to maintain good air circulation. Adjust both controls up one notch.

My dispenser is not dispensing water, or dispenses water slowly.

New installation

• Make sure the cradle has been held down 2-3 minutes to allow the reservoir to fill completely. (The reservoir is in refrigerator) This does not apply to top mount models with a water dispenser, because there is no reservoir. Note: It take approximately 7 seconds to fill an 8 ounce glass.

No water

• Make sure the water line to refrigerator is turned on. The saddle valve is used to connect the water supply line to the house plumbing and must be fully open for the refrigerator to receive water.

No water from door

• Check the water tank behind the vegetable bins to if it is frozen or cracked. This is hard to do visually, usually a frozen tank will be split and will leak on the fresh food floor. Low food load in the fresh food section can cause the tank to freeze.
• The meat pan lever may also be turned to the coldest position and on units that have a low water usage, this will also cause the tank to freeze. You will want to lower the meat drawer setting or use more water from the door. This does not apply to Top Mount water dispenser models, because they do not have a reservoir. Problem requiring service, glass fill time.

Dispenser drips water

• If the dispenser drip water constantly, there most likely is a water valve problem, and you should have it checked by a service technician.

Dribble

• A dribble as defined as a small amount of water (few drops) that may miss the glass ONLY AFTER USAGE. This is due to a delay in the overall system.

How do I clean my refrigerator?

NOTE: Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners such as window sprays, scouring cleansers, flammable fluids, cleaning waxes, concentrated detergents, bleaches or cleansers containing petroleum products on plastic parts, interior and door liners, or gaskets. Do not use paper towels, scouring pads, or other harsh cleaning tools.

• Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
• Hand wash, rinse, and dry removable parts and interior surfaces thoroughly. Use a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water.
• For painted metal surfaces wash with a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners, or cleaners designed for stainless steel. Dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.
• To keep your painted appliance surfaces looking like new use appliance polish and cleaner regularly. This wax-based cleaner and polish goes on easy to remove unwanted grime and dirt and leaves behind a sparkling shine.

I have frost accumulation on my freezer walls or floor.

• To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

Causes of frost accumulation:

• High humidity.
• Heavy door openings.
• Warm food load.
• Packages resting against the rear wall.
• Packages keeping the door open.
• After correcting these causes, the frost accumulation will go away in a few days. You may need service if the door gaskets are not sealing properly or are torn or split or if the fan in the freezer is not running.

My refrigerator never shuts off, it runs too much.

• For a freezer to maintain a desired temperature of 0 degrees F or a combination refrigerator-freezer to maintain a 5 degrees F freezer and 35 - 40 degrees fresh food temperature, the compressor will usually run more than 50% of the time. Refrigerators have smaller, more powerful, high-speed compressors that generally cost less to operate than those in older refrigerators. These compressors are designed to run 80 % to 90% of the time. This makes them more energy efficient because the greatest amount of energy used when the compressor cycles on.

Factors that contributes to run time:

• In extremely hot, humid areas, run time may approach 100%.
• Loading the refrigerator or freezer with a large amount of food, especially warm or hot foods, will also add to the run time. Hot foods should be allowed to cool before being placed in the cabinet.
• Another significant factor that contributes to run time is an empty or lightly loaded freezer. Because no insulation material is perfect, air alone does not retain cold. An empty refrigerator or freezer must run more to maintain temperatures low enough to satisfy the temperature control and turn the compressor off. A freezer should be at least 3/4 full to maintain proper temperatures and reduce time.
• Door openings contribute significantly to the run time of any refrigerator. When the door is opened, some of the heavy cold air slides out of the cabinet, pulling warm air in at the top.
• Make sure that ALL bins and shelves, in freezer and fresh-food section, are properly seated in the refrigerator. Ensure that large trays, platters, and food items (like pizza boxes) are arranged so that they do not interfere with the door closing. (If freezer door, make sure no ice is behind the ice bin, and if present ensure bottom freezer basket is on its rollers)
• Check door gaskets - are they sealing properly?
• Check for blocked air vents in freezer section (any grill work on back wall).
• Be sure the refrigerator is installed with proper air clearance.
• Make sure interior lights are off when door is closed.
• Heavy frost build up (1/2" or more) on non-defrost models will cause long run times.

Why is my ice dispenser not working? (Side by side refrigerator)

• Check that the dispenser is not locked. Some models have a lock feature that deactivates the dispenser levers and control buttons. The lock button is on the dispenser front cover. This feature prevents unintentional dispensing during cleaning, etc. Press the "Unlock" or "Locked" button to reactivate the dispenser levers and allow dispenser function.
• If there has been a recent power outage or the power supply has been off for more than 1 hour, the power outage indicator (on some models) will disable the dispenser function. To use the dispenser, press and hold the Reset button (if applicable) for 3 seconds until you hear the beeps.
• Check that ice is not stuck in the ice chute. The ice chute can build up ice flakes over time due to the use of crushed ice. The ice chute is located on the inside of the freezer door and is accessible by removing the ice storage bin. Use only a plastic utensil to remove ice from the ice chute. Do not use anything sharp to remove ice as this may damage the ice chute. Once large clumps or cubes are removed, use a warm, wet cloth to wipe the inside of the ice chute. After removing the ice build-up, dry the ice chute by wiping it with a clean, dry cloth to prevent additional ice formation.
• Check that ice is not clumping or sticking together in the ice bin. If it is, shake the ice bin to separate the cubes. If the cubes do not separate, empty the ice bin and clean it. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.
• Check that ice is not melted around the auger. The auger is the metal spiral object in the ice bin. If it is, dispose of the ice cubes and clean the ice bin. Do not try to remove the melted ice with a sharp object as this may damage the ice bin. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.

My refrigerator is noisy. What noises are normal?

The normal operation of your refrigerator will cause some sound. The following list contains sounds that are normal.

• A change in fan speed as the refrigerator responds to changes in temperature due to door opening.
• A clicking/tic toc noise can be heard when the defrost timer switches on and off.
• A click can be heard when the temperature control unit turns the unit on and off.
• A boiling, gurgling, or knocking sound can be heard when the unit is running. This is caused by the circulation of refrigerant.
• Gurgling sound in the door. This sound can be heard just after the door is closed because of the water in drain tube trap area. It can last several seconds.
• A drip may be heard when defrost water is dripping into the pan beneath the refrigerator.
• A hum or click can be heard when the icemaker fills with water. This sound may be heard once or multiple times.
• The icemaker will make a loud noise when cubes are dropped into the bucket.
• Buzzing noises can be heard after getting water from the door dispenser. The noise should not last longer than 7 seconds.
• A snapping sound will be heard about 4 seconds after removing a glass from a dispenser. This is the sound of the dispenser chute closing.
• A clicking noise may be heard after a power shortage. This stems from the compressor trying to re-start itself. The noise could last for 3 to 5 minutes.
• A hissing, sizzling, buzzing, or arching noise may be heard on self-defrost models. This is produced when water drips on defrost heaters.

My oven doesn't heat, but the burners do heat.

• Make sure that oven controls are set correctly for either bake or broil.
• Check oven door on self-clean ranges to make sure it is in the unlocked position.
• Check the oven knobs to make sure they are in the correct position. If the range has knobs for oven temperature and oven function and if the control knobs were removed for cleaning, make sure they were reinstalled in the proper location.

Electric Ranges Only:

• Check the bake element. Turn your range OFF and remove fuses or turn breaker OFF, then unplug the range. Carefully inspect the bake element (lower element) for cracks or breaks. If cracked or broken, it will need to be replaced.
• Even if the bake element is not broken or cracked, since it does not heat service is needed.

Gas Ovens Only (excludes Dual Fuel Ranges):

• On new gas range installations, make sure range main gas regulator "on" the range is set in the on position. They are all shipped with the regulator in the "on" position but if jarred or bumped during installation it can spring back to the off position. This on/off lever on the regulator may not be apparent to most consumers. Our service department can help you reset. (Burners will still work with the valve off, oven will not!)
• Check the oven Glo-Bar Igniter. Turn oven to "onâ€? position, open oven door, and look for a red glow. If no red glow is observed, there may be a malfunction with the Glo-Bar, on/off control, or other electrical components. If you would like to schedule a service appointment, please contact our service department.

My oven temperature is not correct.

• Make sure the oven preheated. The oven needs time to preheat before baking. Most pies, cakes, biscuits, etc., have such short cooking times that failure to preheat the oven can make a significant difference in cooking results.
• Convection Conversion Models. Some model convection ranges will automatically change the set temperature 25 degrees lower.
• Check the type of cookware that is being used. Your cookware may be having an effect on the baking results. If the pans being used are dark baking pans, be sure to reduce the oven temperature 25 degrees. These pans retain heat and at the regular baking temperatures some foods may burn or overcook.
• Make sure heat is not blocked from circulating in the oven. If the use of aluminum foil is being used on the oven shelf, never cover the entire shelf. This will block the circulation of heat in the oven. There should always allow two inches around the back sides of the oven shelf for heat circulation.
• Check the placement of pans in the oven. Pan placement may be affecting how the oven heats. How and where the pans are placed in the oven will make a difference. Make sure that there is at least one to two inches between pans and between pans and the side and rear walls of the oven to ensure proper air/heat circulation.
• Check the rack position. Rack position can also be critical to proper baking. Please consult the Owner's Manual.
• Make sure the oven door has not been opened during cooking. Opening the oven door frequently when cooking can increase the cooking time. Also, check the oven gasket for rips or tears. A torn gasket will need to be replaced.

Electric ranges only:

Turn the oven on and make sure that the bake element (the one in the bottom of the oven) glows in the bake cycle. Then set the oven control to broil and watch the broil element (the one in the top of the oven) to see if it glows. If not, there may be a malfunction in the element. If you would like to schedule a service appointment, please contact our service department.

My range surface seems too hot.

Electric Ranges:

• Make sure the oven vent is not misplaced or covered. On ranges with coils (not smooth top cooktop), the oven vents from beneath the right rear burner. When the oven is in use, heat is exhausted under that coil. If the vent opening on the burner bowl is turned the wrong way, heat from the oven will divert under the cooktop, rather than out from right rear burner. For help in positioning offset vent, refer to the Use and Care Booklet. Avoid covering the right rear element with a decorative burner cover. This will cause heat to build up under the cooktop when the oven is in use.
• Check the pan size. Oversized pans will trap heat between the bottom of the pan and the cooktop; this will transfer a lot of heat to the cooktop. Your pans should not hang over more than one inch on each side of any surface burner. (e.g., on an eight inch burner the maximum pan size should not exceed ten inches. On six inch burners the pans you use should not be larger than eight inches.)
• Make sure the burners are uncovered. Covering the drip pans with aluminum foil will transfer more heat to the cooktop.
• Check the type of burners. On ranges with cast iron solid disk burners, the transfer of heat from those burners to the cooktop can be significant and the cooktop can become very hot. Caution should be used with these type burners.
• Check the type of drip pans. Dark or porcelain drip pans can conduct more burner heat to the cooktop than bright aluminum drip pans under your coil surface elements.

Gas Ranges:

• On most gas ranges, the oven is usually vented up through the back-splash and heat from the oven is directed downward. This may make the cooktop hot if you bake, broil, or roast for an extended period.
• Check the pan size. If you use an oversized pan, heat will be trapped between the bottom of the pan and the cooktop and transfer a lot of heat to the cooktop. Your pans should not hang over more than one inch on each side of any surface burner.

My electric burners do not heat or partially heat.

• See if the burner could be loose. Some ranges have plug-in burners and the burners can become loose in the socket. Unplug the burner, then reinstall to fully seated position.
• Make sure the correct burner is selected, matching the correct burner to the proper switch
• Make sure the pan has a flat, smooth bottom. For smooth-top radiant ranges and ranges with solid disk surface burner elements, it is essential that the pan have a flat, smooth bottom for proper operation. If the pan is not flat, the heat sensors built into these elements will prematurely cycle and turn off the heat to the element.
• If the top burners do not work, but the clock does work, your appliance may be wired improperly, contact your installer for further assistance.
• Check circuit breakers/fuses and power cord. On most slide in and free standing ranges, it will be necessary to pull out the lower drawer to access the plug and verify is connected securely (for others, sliding the appliance out from the wall would be necessary). For safety, make sure the circuit breaker or fuse is disconnected before checking the power cord for a loose connection. If the power cord is connected securely, your oven may be wired improperly, contact our service department for further assistance.
• Check the burner. If one burner doesn't heat, remove it and plug it into another burner receptacle of the same size. Then, turn on that element. If it still does not work, the element will need to be replaced.
• If none of the burners work, but the oven bakes and broils, it may be necessary to contact our service department. If you would like to schedule a service appointment, please contact our service department.

My gas burners do not heat or partially heat.

• Make sure the correct burner is selected, matching the burner to the correct switch.
• Make sure the burner cap is not loose. If your range has sealed burners, make sure the burner cap is seated properly, is not tilted, and does not rock or wobble. Also, make sure the cap matches the burner. Your range may have one or more burners that are different sizes. You need to make sure that a small burner cap is not on a large burner or that a large burner cap is not on a small burner.
• Check to see if there is power to the range. Make sure the range is plugged-in and inspect circuit breakers or fuses.

Things to try if none of these solved the problem:

• Try turning on the oven. If it comes on, but no burners work, then you will need to contact service. If you would like to schedule a service appointment, please contact our service department.
• Make sure you turned the burner knob to the Lite position. Only after a flame is visible around the burner should the knob be turned to the desired cooking setting.
• Check the burner heads for dirt and debris. If some of the burners work, lift the range cooktop on non-sealed burner models, and check the malfunctioning burner heads for dirt or debris that may be clogging the holes. Carefully clean out any stopped-up holes with mild soap and water. Be sure to dry burner heads thoroughly before re-installing.
• When the surface burners are turned "onâ€? and if the igniters do not click, we recommend that you contact service. If you would like to schedule a service appointment, please contact our service department.

How do I activate the Control Lock feature?

• The Control Lock feature shuts down the control panel pads to avoid unintended use of the oven. The Control Lock feature may be used either when the range is in use or turned off (for example, during cleaning). The Control Lock is preset to unlocked, but it can be locked.
• When the Control Lock is activated, only the Timer Set/Start, Timer Off, and Oven Light pads will function.

How do I clean and care for my stainless steel surfaces?

To clean and care for your stainless steel surfaces, follow these suggestions:

• Wash surfaces with warm, soapy water using liquid detergent or an all-purpose cleaner and a nonabrasive sponge. Always rub evenly in the direction of the grain.
• Rinse with clean water and dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.
• To restore its luster, apply a layer of stainless steel polish; follow the recommendations and directions on the polish label. Wipe excess polish and use special care to avoid contact with any plastic parts, trim pieces or rubber door gaskets. If polish does contact any of these plastic parts, clean them with a nonabrasive sponge and mild detergent in warm water. Thoroughly dry the area with a soft cloth.
• Use a clean, dry towel to polish the surface in the direction of the grain until it shines.

IMPORTANT: To avoid damage to the finish, do not use soap-filled scouring pads, abrasive or harsh cleaners, any cleaning product containing chlorine bleach, steel-wool pads, gritty wash cloths or certain paper towels.

What should I do before I self-clean my oven?

• Self-clean the oven before it becomes heavily soiled. Heavy soil results in longer cleaning and more smoke.
• Keep the kitchen well-ventilated during the self-cleaning cycle to help get rid of heat, odors and smoke.
• Do not block the oven vent(s) during the self-cleaning cycle. Air must be able to move freely.
• Do not clean, rub, damage or move the oven door gasket. The door gasket is essential for a good seal.

Prepare Oven:

• Remove the broiler pan, grid, cookware and bakeware from the oven.
• Remove any foil from the oven because it may burn or melt, which will damage the oven.
• Remove oven racks to keep them shiny and easy to slide.
• Hand-clean inside door edge and the 1½" (3.8 cm) area around the inside oven cavity frame; make sure not to move or bend the gasket. This area does not get hot enough during self-cleaning to remove soil. Do not let water, cleaner or any other liquid enter the slots on the door frame. Use a damp cloth to clean this area.
• Wipe out any loose soil to reduce smoke and avoid damage. At high temperatures, foods react with porcelain. Staining, etching, pitting or faint white spots can result. This will not affect cooking performance.

Prepare Cooktop and Storage Drawer:

• Remove plastic items from the cooktop because they may melt.
• Remove all items from the storage drawer.

My oven takes too long to preheat.

• Preheat time varies according to oven type. If the oven is installed at its proper voltage (120 volts for gas and 240 volts for electric):
• Electric ovens with hidden bake elements and gas ovens can take 15-20 minutes to preheat. Ovens with a visible bottom bake element can take 5-10 minutes to preheat.
• This is a normal operation and the preheat time cannot be altered.

Factors that will affect the preheat time are:

• Selected temperature
• Starting temperature of the oven
• Room temperature
• 208 volt installation will increase preheat time by 25%
• Below 105 volt gas installation
• Some electric ranges with the convection roast feature can speed up the preheat time by selecting "Convect Roast" on the control panel when preheating.

What can cause my surface burner(s) not to ignite?

Is the burner wet from cleaning?

• Allow the burner to completely dry. You might want to speed up the drying process by blowing cool air on the area using a hair blow dryer.
• If burner ports are clogged, refer to your Use and Care Guide for sealed surface burners cleaning recommendations.

Are the burner ports clogged?

• If burner ports are clogged, refer to your Use and Care Guide for sealed surface burners cleaning recommendations.

Do all burners fail to light?

• Check to see if the cooktop is connected to the gas supply and the gas shutoff is turned on.
• If you are not connected to gas, have a qualified gas technician connect the appliance to gas.
• If you are connected to gas and have verified gas is available at the appliance, contact our service department for assistance.

Do you hear a sparking sound?

• If there are sparking sounds, the igniter may not be sparking to the burner cap.
• Turn off the appliance and check to make sure the caps are set on the correct burner base properly.
• Do not switch the caps from one burner to another as they may not spark properly. Each burner has its own individual cap.

What is recommended for cleaning and caring for my ceramic cooktop?

To avoid damaging the cooktop, follow these instructions to preserve the uniquely elegant look of your ceramic surface unit:

• Do not store jars or cans above the cooktop.
• Dropping a heavy or hard object onto the cooktop could crack the cooktop. Use special care with heavy skillets.
• Do not leave a hot lid on the cooktop. As the cooktop cools, air can become trapped between the lid and the cooktop, and the ceramic glass could break when the lid is removed.
• For foods containing sugar in any form, clean all spills and soils as soon as possible. Allow the cooktop to cool slightly and then, while wearing oven mitts, remove the spills while the surface is still warm. If sugary spills are allowed to cool, they can adhere to the cooktop and can cause pitting and permanent marks.
• Do not slide cookware or bakeware across the cooktop. Aluminum or copper bottoms and rough finishes on cookware or bakeware could leave scratches or marks on the cooktop.
• Do not cook popcorn in prepackaged aluminum containers on the cooktop. They could leave aluminum marks that cannot be completely removed.
• Do not use the cooktop as a cutting board.
• Use cookware about the same size as the surface cooking area. Cookware should not extend more than 1/2" (1.3 cm) outside the area.

Are there any tips for using cookware on my cooktop?

• Cookware material is a factor in how quickly and evenly heat is transferred, which affects cooking results. A nonstick finish has the same characteristics as its base material. For example, aluminum cookware with a nonstick finish will take on the properties of aluminum.

Use the following information as a guide for cookware material:

• Aluminum
  Heats quickly and evenly.
  Suitable for all types of cooking.
  Medium or heavy thickness is best for most cooking tasks.
• Cast iron
  Heats slowly and evenly.
  Good for browning and frying.
  Maintains heat for slow cooking.
• Ceramic
  Follow manufacturer's instructions.
  Heats slowly, but unevenly.
  Ideal results on low to medium heat settings.
• Copper
  Heats very quickly and evenly.
• Earthenware
  Follow manufacturer's instructions.
  Use on low heat settings.
• Porcelain enamel-on-steel or cast iron
  See stainless steel or cast iron.
• Stainless steel
  Heats quickly, but unevenly.
  A core or base of aluminum or copper on stainless steel provides even heating.

My gas cooktop burners are clicking. Is that normal?

• If the burner igniters are clicking in the "off" position, make sure the knob is turned completely to the "off" position and the knob has popped back out.
• It is normal to hear multiple burners click when only one ignites.
• Moisture after cleaning can also cause the igniters to click intermittently. Let the unit dry for a few hours.
• If clicking noises persists, contact our service department for assistance or to make an appointment.

Why is my electric cooktop not working?

Are the controls set correctly?

• Push in knob before turning to a setting.

For coil element models, is the element inserted properly?

• Turn off the unit and fully reinsert the element into the receptacle.

For electronic touch pad models, have you accidentally set the control lock?

• Press down and hold the control lock button for 5 seconds to unlock the control lock. The light next to the lock should turn off. If it still appears to be locked, turn off the power to the cooktop for a minute, and then turn power back on to reset the controls.

Why does the cooktop indicator light stay on?

Are all the cooktop indicator lights on after power was turned on to the cooktop?

• It is normal for an electronic tap touch-controlled glass cooktop to have its hot indicator lights come on when power is turned on from the breaker.
• This ensures the cooktop has properly cooled before turning off the hot warning lights. Indicator lights will remain on up to 30 to 40 minutes.

Is the cooktop "on" light on?

• Push in and turn a knob to a setting.
• The cooktop "on" indicator light is located on the right side of the control panel. The light will glow when any surface control knob is turned on.
• The indicator light will go off when all control knobs have been turned off, even when one or more surface cooking areas are still hot.

Is the Hot Surface light on?

• This light, located above the knob, is a Hot Surface light. It will illuminate when the burner surface heats up. It will stay illuminated until the surface burner cools down.
• This light could stay on for up to two hours after the burner has been turned off, depending on how long it takes to cool down.

Why is the food on my cooktop burner not simmering or boiling?

Are the control knobs set correctly?

• The surface cooking area locator shows which element is turned on. Use the temperature setting guide in the Use & Care guide when setting heat levels.

Are you using the correct size burner for cookware?

• Use the small burners for simmering and cooking small quantities of food requiring smaller cookware.
• Use the large burners for boiling, deep fat frying and cooking large quantities of food requiring larger cookware.

Are you using proper cookware?

• See tips on proper cookware to use on your cooktop.
• For best results your cookware should be perfectly flat on the bottom.
• Using a pan too large or too small for a cooking area can impact cooking performance.
• As a rule, your cookware should not overlap the heat zone by more than one inch on each side.
• Choose the heat zone closest to the pan size.

Do you have your control knob set on the highest temperature?

• Set burner switch to highest setting.

The vent on my gas modular downdraft cooktop doesn't seem to be working properly.

If the vent on your cooktop doesn't seem to be working properly, the following may be why:

• Exhaust fan is not turned on.
• Vent filters are not clean or are not in place.
• Vent duct or outside opening is blocked.
• There is a draft in the room where the cooktop is installed.
• Meat is not well-trimmed.
• Vent system has not been installed according to the installation instructions.

Why won't my microwave oven run?

Is the door completely closed?

• Firmly close the door.

Firmly close the door.

• Remove spacer, and then firmly close the door.

Is the electronic oven control set correctly?

• See "Microwave oven control" section in your Use & Care Guide. If you do not have your Use & Care Guide.

On some models, is the Child Lock (on some models) set?

• See "Child Lock" section below.

Is the magnetron working properly?

• Try to heat one cup (250 mL) of cold water for two minutes at 100% cooking power. If water does not heat, please contact us for service.

Child Lock (on some models)

• The Child Lock shuts down the control panel pads to prevent unintended use of the microwave oven. When the control is locked, only the Vent Fan and Light pads will function.

To Lock/Unlock control:

• The microwave oven and timer must be off. Touch and hold Cancel (on some models) or Start (on other models) for five seconds until two tones sound and a lock icon appears on the display. Repeat to unlock and remove the lock icon from display.

Can I use aluminum foil in my microwave and if so, are there tips for using it?

• Aluminum foil and some metal can be used in the oven. If not used properly, arcing (a blue flash of light) can occur and cause damage to the microwave oven.

Metals approved for use

Racks and bakeware supplied with the microwave oven (on some models), aluminum foil for shielding, and approved meat thermometers may be used with the following guidelines:

• Do not allow aluminum foil or metal to touch the inside cavity walls, ceiling or floor.
• Always use the turntable.
• Always use the turntable.
• Do not allow contact with another metal object during cooking.

Metals not approved for use

Do not use the following metal in microwave ovens:

• Metal cookware and bakeware
• Gold, silver, pewter
• Non-approved meat thermometers
• Skewers
• Twist ties
• Foil liners such as sandwich wrappers
• Staples
• Objects with gold or silver trim or a metallic glaze

How can I tell if a dish is microwave-safe?

Follow the directions below to determine if a dish or utensil is microwave safe.

• Fill a cup with water.
• Place the cup in the oven on or beside the utensil in question.
• Microwave for one minute on high.
• If the water becomes hot and the dish remains cool, the dish is microwave safe. If the dish heats up, it should not be used for microwaving.

Note: You cannot have one cup of water in the microwave with a power level of 10 for more than two minutes. If you leave it for more than 2 minutes, there is a higher risk of spontaneous boiling.

• If both items fit in the oven without placing water on the utensil, the test results will be more apparent. This happens because some heat will be generated downward and the utensil may become warm. This would be a normal condition.

How do I clean my microwave?

• To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug the microwave from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.
• Spills and spatters clean up easily with a damp, soapy paper towel or sponge. It is best to clean soil as soon as it appears. Baking soda and water may also be used.
• If the food has cooked onto the interior, heat one cup of water on full power for three minutes. The heat and steam help to soften the food. After the three minutes, allow five additional minutes stand time then clean as usual. A non-abrasive scrubbing pad cleaner works well for stubborn stains.
• You may use mild dish washing liquid or cleaners specifically listed for cleaning interiors of microwave ovens.
• For stainless steel interiors of microwave/convection models, we recommend a plastic, soap-filled scouring pad. Rubbing gently with this pad will help remove soil.
• For the door surfaces (both interior and exterior), we recommend you use only mild, non-abrasive soaps, or detergents applied with a sponge, or soft cloth
• For the control panel wipe with a soft, damp cloth. Dry immediately with a soft cloth. Do not spray any solution directly onto the controls.

Why is there moisture on the interior of my microwave oven?

• Condensation inside the unit is normal and especially prevalent when cooking foods of high moisture content for extended periods of time either inside the microwave or on a cooktop beneath an over the range microwave.
• Steam and vapor escaping from around the door is normal.
• If minimal moisture is noticed between the glass, allow the microwave door to stand open for approximately 15 minutes to accelerate the dissipation of the moisture. If the moisture does not evaporate in a reasonable amount of time, contact our service department for assistance or to schedule an appointment.

How do I replace the oven light in my over-the-range microwave oven?

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

To replace the oven light in most models:

• Disconnect the power at the main fuse or circuit breaker or pull the plug.
• Remove the top grill by taking out the two screws that hold it in place.
• Remove the screw that secures the light housing. It is located above the door near the center of the oven.
• Replace the bulb with a like bulb.
• Replace the light housing screw and grill.
• Connect the electrical power to the oven.

Why isn't my turntable operating?

• The turntable can rotate in either direction to help cook food more evenly. Do not operate the oven without having the turntable in place.

Has the tape been removed from turntable hub?

To install turntable:

• Remove tape from the hub.
• Place the support on the oven cavity bottom.
• Place the turntable on the support. Fit the raised, curved lines in the center of the turntable bottom between the three spokes of the hub. The rollers on the support should fit inside the turntable bottom ridge.

Is the turntable properly in place?

• Make sure turntable is correct side up and is sitting securely on the turntable support.

Is the turntable support operating properly?

• Remove turntable. Remove and clean turntable support and rollers. Replace turntable support. Replace turntable. Place one cup (250 mL) of water on the turntable; then restart microwave oven. If it still is not working, call our service department.

My touch control panel on the microwave oven does not work properly.

• Make sure that the microwave is plugged into a grounded outlet. It must be a 3-prong outlet.
• Make sure the clock is set.
• Check to see if a programming sequence was entered. Sometimes improper programming or a program sequence such as delay start can cause the touch panel to be non-responsive. Unplug microwave or turn off house circuit breaker for 30 seconds. Plug back in, or reset circuit breaker, and try reprogramming unit.
• Check the house circuit breaker or fuse box. If the microwave is DEAD and there is no display and nothing works- the problem could be a blown fuse or tripped breaker.

My dishwasher will not start.

Is the door open or unlatched?

• Make sure the door is completely closed and latched. Check for obstructions (spoons, etc), interfering with the door operation. A lower dish rack that is installed backward will also cause incomplete door closure.

Is there power to the dishwasher?

• Check your household electrical box to see if a fuse has blown or if the circuit breaker has tripped. If the unit has a plug-in power cord, make sure it is plugged in.

Does your dishwasher have a rotary timer knob? (Some models)

• The cycle selection must match the position of the timer knob. Turn the timer knob to the beginning of the preferred cycle. The timer knob should click when you reach the start of the cycle.

Is the control lock option activated?

• Press and hold the Heated Dry option (button with lock icon) for five seconds and the light should turn off. Instructions are also placed on the label on top of the inner door to unlock the controls.

Is the delay start option activated?

• To cancel the delay and cycle, press Cancel/Drain.

Has the motor stopped for less than 10 minutes?

• The motor may have stopped due to an overload. If this is the case, the motor will automatically reset itself within 5-10 minutes.

Is the water shutoff valve (if installed) turned on?

• Make sure that the water shutoff valve is turned on.

Why isn't my dishwasher draining?

Is the door open or unlatched?

• Make sure the door is completely closed and latched.

Is the selected cycle incomplete?

• Press Cancel/Drain to try and drain the standing water.

Is the water level just covering the pump module?

• This is normal. A small amount of water will be seen in the bottom of the sump area at the base of the pump. This is to ensure that the pump seal does not dry out.

Is there a new garbage disposal?

• Make sure the knockout plug is removed in the new disposal. For many dishwashers, the drain hose is connected to the disposal. The knockout plug must be removed from inside the food waste disposer inlet.

Is the drain system blocked?

• Run the disposer to clear the drain system.

Do you have an air gap at your sink?

• Check to see if the air gap is blocked by foreign material. To clean the drain air gap, follow the cleaning instructions provided by the manufacturer. With most types, you lift off the chrome cover, unscrew the plastic cap, and then check for any soil buildup. Clean if necessary.

Is there a loop in the drain hose less than 20" above the floor?

• Make sure the drain hose is looped up so that it touches the underside of the counter before connecting to the sink drain or disposer.

Is there a kink in the drain hose?

• Replace a kinked drain hose.

Did you reuse an existing drain hose?

• Make sure to use the new drain hose that came with the dishwasher.

Is the sink drain clogged?

• If the sink is not draining well, a plumber may need to be contacted. Most dishwashers connect to the sink drain. If the sink drain is clogged, the dishwasher can't pump out water.

My dishwasher does not wash or rinse well.

Check the water pressure.

• The water pressure to the dishwasher should be 20 - 120 PSI (3/8" O.D. copper water line or 1/2" O.D. plastic water line).

Check the wash cycle selection.

• Select the appropriate cycle for the dish load. Selecting a short or light wash cycle may save water and energy, but may not provide proper wash action for a heavily soiled load. If food soils remain on the dishware after the cycle, a longer cycle may be required. Please consult the Owner's Manual.

Check the water temperature.

• Proper water temperature is essential to achieve optimum results from your dishwasher and the detergent. Hot water is needed to dissolve and activate the detergent so that it can loosen and remove common food soils.

The hot water heater should be set to deliver at least 120 degree Fahrenheit water to the dishwasher.

• To check the water temperature, run the hot water at the kitchen sink and measure the temperature of the running water with a candy or meat thermometer. Adjust the temperature of the water heater accordingly.

Be sure that the dishwasher is filling with the hottest possible water.

• Run the hot water faucet at the kitchen sink prior to operating the dishwasher. Also, avoid running the dishwasher while hot water is being used for other activities.

Check the amount of detergent and the water hardness.

• The amount of detergent needed depends upon: water hardness, the amount of food soils left on the dish load, and the temperature of the water going into the dishwasher.

Use a rinse agent.

• Rinse agents promote wash and dry performance by causing the water to sheet off of the ware inside the dishwasher. This prevents water spots from forming on the glassware and dishware.

Check the dishwasher loading.

• Make sure dishes are loaded properly to insure that water can reach all of the soiled surfaces in both racks. Please consult the Owner's Manual for proper loading patterns for your specific dishwasher model.

Excessive amounts of food may clog the dishwasher filters and reduce wash performance.

• In models without extending wash towers, the spray arm may be removed to check the fine filter underneath. Gently lift up the spray arm while rotating it counter clockwise about 90 degrees. This will "unscrew" the arm and permit its removal. Inspect the fine filter. It should be clean.
• If the fine filter is not clean, contact our service department. To prevent this from happening, scrape dishes before placing them in the dishwasher. It is not necessary to pre-wash your dishes, just scrape off the big chunks.

My dishes don't dry completely.

Was the Heated Dry option selected?

• Use the Heated Dry option for better drying results.

Was rinse aid used?

• Your dishwasher is designed to use rinse aid for good drying performance. Without rinse aid, your dishes and dishwasher interior will have excessive moisture.
• The heat dry option will not perform as well without rinse aid. Rinse aid improves drying and reduces water spots and filming. Water "sheets" off dishes rather than forming water droplets that cling and leave spots.

Is the rinse aid dispenser empty?

• Make sure the rinse aid dispenser is full. Use a rinse agent to remove the mineral residue that creates water spots and film on dishes and begin enjoying spot-free table ready dishes after every wash.

Were items loaded incorrectly?

Is the water temperature too low?

• For best results, the water should be 120° F as it enters the dishwasher. Loads may not wash as well if the water temperature is too low.
• Water that is too hot can make some soils harder to remove and cause certain detergent ingredients to not function.
• If your water heater is located far from the dishwasher, it may be necessary to run the hot water at the faucet closest to the dishwasher to minimize the amount of cold water in the water line.

My dishwasher has an odor. What should I do?

Is there a new plastic smell?

• This is a normal smell and should dissipate with time. Run a white vinegar rinse to reduce the odor:
• Wash and rinse dishes. Do not use a heated dry option. Use an air-dry or an energy-saving dry option. Remove all silverware or metal items.
• Put 2 cups (500 mL) of white vinegar in a glass or dishwasher-safe measuring cup on the bottom rack.
• Run the dishwasher through a complete washing cycle using an air-dry or an energy-saving dry option. Do not use detergent. The vinegar will mix with the wash water.
• Run the dishwasher through a normal cycle with detergent after cleaning the interior.

Are dishes washed only every two or three days?

• Run a rinse cycle once or twice a day until you have a full load.

Is there a petroleum smell?

• This is a normal smell. Some models have sound-deadening material that smells like petroleum.

Is there a varnish smell?

• This is a typical motor smell. Some motor windings are treated with a varnish. This smell will wear off in approximately one month.

Is there a burnt plastic smell?

• Possible cause: Plastic parts have fallen onto the heating element during a cycle.
• Solution: Remove plastic parts from heater after it has cooled. After a few cycles, the excess plastic will burn off.
• Possible cause: Plastics washed were not dishwasher safe.
• Solution: Wash only dishwasher-safe plastics in the dishwasher.

Is there a musty, spoiled smell?

• Standing water in the dishwasher can cause this smell. See also "Why isn't my dishwasher draining"?

How much detergent should I use in my dishwasher?

Use only powder, liquid or tablet detergent designed specifically for automatic dishwashers.

• Any other types may cause a sudsing and as a result, poor wash performance and possibly suds and water on your kitchen floor.

Use the right amount of detergent for the job.

• Soft hot water requires less detergent - perhaps a quarter of a cup in the main cup.
• Very hard water requires a full main cup and a full open cup to get good wash performance.
• Conditions between these require judgment. Use enough to get the job done, but don't use more than you need.

Too much detergent in very soft water will cause etching of glassware.

• This is a permanent clouding of the glass. If you experience this condition, use less detergent.

Keep your detergent fresh and dry.

• Store the detergent in container away from moisture to prevent lumps.
• Do not put detergent in the cup until you are ready to run a cycle.
• If powder detergent gets old or lumpy, throw it out; it will not clean effectively. Liquid detergents do not age.

My freezer will not operate.

Is the power supply cord unplugged?

• Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.

Has a household fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped?

• Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.

Is the Temperature Control turned to the OFF position?

• See "Using the Control" below.

Is the freezer defrosting (on some models)?

• Some models regularly run an automatic defrost cycle. Recheck to see whether the freezer is operating in 30 minutes.

Using the control:

• Turn the freezer temperature control to a numbered setting. Allow the freezer to cool six to eight hours before filling with frozen food.
• The middle setting (typically "4") is designed to maintain the temperature at or near 0°F (-17.8°C) under normal operating conditions.
• Let the freezer cool overnight before adding large amounts of unfrozen food. Never add more than two to three pounds (907 to 1,350 g) of unfrozen food per cubic foot (28.32 L) of freezer space.

NOTE: When the freezer is first started, the compressor will run constantly until the freezer is cooled. It may take up to six to eight hours (or longer), depending on room temperature and the number of times the freezer door is opened. After the freezer is cooled, the compressor will turn on and off as needed to keep the freezer at the proper temperature. The outside of your freezer may feel warm. This is normal. The freezer’s design and main function is to remove heat from packages and air space inside the freezer. The heat is transferred to the room air, making the outside of the freezer feel warm.

Why is my upright freezer too warm?

Are the air vents blocked?

• This obstructs cold air movement. Move objects away from the air vents. See "Ensuring proper air circulation" below for air vent locations.

Is the door opened often?

• Be aware that the freezer will warm when this occurs. In order to keep the freezer cool, try to get everything you need out of the freezer at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.

Has a large amount of food just been added to the freezer?

• Adding a large amount of food warms the freezer. It can take several hours for the freezer to return to the normal temperature.

Is the control set correctly for the surrounding conditions?

• See ":Using the control" below.

Ensuring proper air circulation:

• In order to ensure proper temperature, you need to permit proper airflow in the freezer. Cool air enters through the freezer wall and moves downward.
• The air then recirculates through the vent near the bottom. Do not block any of these vents with food packages. If the vents are blocked, airflow will be obstructed, and temperature and moisture problems may occur.

Using the control:

• Turn the freezer temperature control to a numbered setting. Allow the freezer to cool six to eight hours before filling with frozen food.
• The middle setting (typically "4") is designed to maintain the temperature at or near 0°F (-17.8°C) under normal operating conditions.
• Let the freezer cool overnight before adding large amounts of unfrozen food. Never add more than two to three pounds (907 to 1,350 g) of unfrozen food per cubic foot (28.32 L) of freezer space.

NOTE: When the freezer is first started, the compressor will run constantly until the freezer is cooled. It may take up to six to eight hours (or longer), depending on room temperature and the number of times the freezer door is opened. After the freezer is cooled, the compressor will turn on and off as needed to keep the freezer at the proper temperature. The outside of your freezer may feel warm. This is normal. The freezer’s design and main function is to remove heat from packages and air space inside the freezer. The heat is transferred to the room air, making the outside of the freezer feel warm.

Why is there frost or ice buildup in my freezer?

• Small ice droplets on the freezer walls and on the back panel are normal. Frost will likely build up if the door is left open for a period of time. Make sure the door is closing completely and is not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet. Frequent door openings can let in humid room air. Keeping door openings to a minimum will help, but may not completely eliminate frost or ice in the freezer. During months of high humidity (especially if a home is not air-conditioned), it is normal to see some frost and sweating on the interior walls or on food packages.

Heavy sheet of ice on the back panel

• A heavy sheet of ice on the freezer back panel is likely an indication of a defrosting problem. If ice buildup continues, call the service department for an appointment.

Frost buildup around the exterior door or on the ceiling

• Frost buildup around the door or on the ceiling suggests an air leak, likely due to a gasket problem.
T
• he door gasket should seal all the way around on the door. Make sure that nothing is keeping the gasket from making a good seal.

The motor on my upright freezer runs too much.

Is there excessive frost or a package preventing the door from closing?

• Defrost and clean the freezer, or move the package so the door closes properly.

Is the room temperature hotter than normal?

• The motor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, your motor will run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more of the time.

Has a large amount of food just been added to the freezer?

• Adding a large amount of food warms the freezer. The motor normally will run longer to cool the freezer back down. Add no more unfrozen food at one time than will freeze in 24 hours, approximately 2 to 3 lbs (0.9 to 1.4 kg) per cubic foot of freezer space.

Is the door opened often?

• The motor will run longer when this occurs. Conserve energy by getting all items out at one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as possible.

Is the control set correctly for the surrounding conditions?

• See: Control use for upright freezer.

Is the door or not closed completely?

• Push the door firmly shut. If it will not shut all the way, rearrange containers so that they take up less space and put shelves and baskets back into their correct positions.

Are the condenser coils dirty (on some models)?

• This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils.

Is the door gasket sealed all the way around?

• Contact a qualified person or a technician.

Why won't my ice maker operate?

Is the power cord plugged in?

• Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.

Is the control set to "on?"

• Make sure that the control is set to "on."

Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?

• Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the problem continues, call an electrician.

Is the room temperature cooler than normal?

• Room temperature must be above 55°F (13°C), otherwise the bin thermostat may sense the cold room temperature and shut off even though the bin is not full of ice. Also, the unit may not restart once it does shut off.

Does the red light come on when the "clean" button is pushed?

• The ice maker is receiving power but may need to be cleaned.

Does the ice maker have a drain pump?

• If there was a large amount of water added to the ice maker, wait a few minutes for the drain pump to clear. If there is still water in the bin, check to see if the drain hose is kinked.

What can cause my ice maker to run and produce only a little ice?

Is the room temperature hotter than normal?

• Room temperatures of more than 90°F (32°C) will reduce ice production.

Is the condenser dirty?

• Dirt or lint may be blocking the airflow through the condenser and may need to be cleaned.

Is there scale buildup in the ice maker?

• If there is white scale buildup in the ice maker's water or freezing system, you should clean the ice maker.

Is the drain cap securely in place?

• If the drain cap is loose, water will empty from the water pan, which will result in either thin ice or no ice. Tighten the drain cap if it is loose.

My ice cubes smell bad or taste bad.

• Food can transfer odors and tastes to ice. Even food in the refrigerator compartment can transfer an odor or taste to the freezer causing bad tasting ice.
• Your refrigerator does not contain any mechanical parts that will produce and odor or cause a bad taste in your food or ice cubes.

There are four (4) conditions that can cause an odor or taste in your ice:

• Open food containers, or spilled foods
• Low ice usage. Old or stale ice will absorb food odors.
• Bad water supply. Sulfur, algae, minerals, salt, etc. in the water supply can cause bad tasting water which results in bad tasting ice.
• Old water filter. If you have a water filtration system, the filter should be replaced every 6 months or as recommended by the manufacturer.

My ice cubes are clumping.

Make sure the freezer light is going off when the door is closed.

Low Use:

• When the ice bin is full, the pressure from the weight of the cubes can cause the bottom cubes to fuse and clump.
• To prevent this from happening, discard the clumped ice and check the bin periodically to ensure the ice is not building up. If you do not use a large amount of ice, turn the icemaker off and stop ice production.

Make sure the freezer is 3/4 full of food.

• If necessary, add plastic jugs filled 2/3 full of water.
• The less empty space there is in the freezer, the more efficiently it will cool. This is because the items in the freezer absorb the cold and help the freezer maintain a steady temperature.

Check for a large quantity of ice in the bin and empty it when it is not needed.

• The pressure created by a large amount of ice can cause the ice to clump. This is especially a problem if large amounts of ice are not used or the ice dispenser is used infrequently.

The ice is allowed to stay in the bin for a long time:

• The ice will begin to evaporate and cause clumping. Remove the old ice from the bin.
• If large amounts of ice are not needed, turn the icemaker to the off position. Raise the metal feeler arm up or turn the switch off.